Monday, May 5, 2008

Actual and metaphorical roadblocks

So I am sorry to have been so delinquent in writing this past week. My time in Zomba passed relatively uneventfully. Just enjoyed the good company of Jennifer (www.malawinme.blogspot.com), the beautiful hiking on the Zomba Plataue, and managed to squeeze in a few meetings and a trip to the National Statistics Office.

Actually, there was a bit more to it than that.

The main reason I went to Zomba (aside from the Statistics Office) and the research center on education at Chancellor College was I was told that I would find all the higher education information at the University of Malawi Administrative Offices. Having found very little information on tertiary education I was pretty eager to start collecting some of that data ASAP.

However, I ran into my first roadblock when I met with the University Registrar. He was very professional and explained to me the various steps I would need to take to “request” permission to collect data at the various institutions and that I would need to return to Blantyre to collect that information at each university not at headquarters in Zomba.

Ok. Minor setback. I was only an hour from Blantyre at that point so it was better to find that out now, rather than in Lilongwe which is a good four hours by bus from Blantyre.

So I went about writing a letter explaining the project and who I was and what information I was looking for. My contact at the City Assembly also provided a letter corroborating that I was working with then and UNDP. These were the steps that I was told to take.

You can imagine my dismay when I went to pick up my letter on my way to Blantyre three days later to find that it was a rejection and it detailing the additional steps I needed to take to request permission. What was I going to do now?

I was able to provide a CV, but there was no way I had the research prospectus, an additional two letters of recommendation, or an established research affiliation with a University if Malawi Center. Luckily, after explaining to the Pro-Vice Chancellor that this was not my own independent research and that I had already met with the director of the research center, he agreed to provide me with a letter. But added there was no way I could get all the information in a day, which is what I had.

I decided to make the best of it and see what I could accomplish during my afternoon in Blantyre. Luckily, I found where the money is at in education in Malawi: the universities. Everyone I spoke with was incredibly helpful and assured me that they would send me what I was looking for via EMAIL!!! We will see how that goes.

So Jennifer and I headed back to Zomba under the cover of darkness. And ran into roadblock, after roadblock. Or should I say police check point?

I am not going to go into great detail over my impression of police here in Malawi, but I will say that these checkpoints can be a bit intimidating. The best you can do is be friendly and hope that no one takes issue with anything you say or the condition of your vehicle, etc. (basically a reason to charge you a fee)

How are you this evening Madame?

Fine, and how are you?

Fine, fine and where are you coming from?

We were in Blantyre.

Oh yes, and was that business or pleasure?

A little of both.

And where are you headed now?

Back to Domasi.

You live there?

Yes, I teach at the college there. (Jennifer is the one speaking here)

Ah, good.

Well, do you usually find yourself driving at night?


Here is where I am at a loss about how to respond. I can tell that Jennifer is too. At least, how do you respond in a way that is not flippant ie “Well, the sun went down, so now it’s dark, and we still had to get home.”

Well, our business kept us in Blantyre all afternoon, and then we had something to eat, and now we are headed back…..

Ah, good, well have a nice evening.

Whew. We overcame the roadblocks for the week.

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