Senga Bay Part One: Don't let the bedbugs bite

I am covered. Cover in the bites of who knows what. Sand fleas, bed bugs, mosquitos? In the space of 24 hours I have amassed more bites than I have in the past five weeks combined. That is what happens when you try to have a beach vacation on the cheap.

Phil arrived in Lilongwe from DC on Friday and we headed out to the lake first thing on Saturday for a relaxing few days in the sun in an attempt to dim the blinding white of our skin (of course with the protection of 45 suncream).

It was supposed to be a short trip out to the lake; the whole reason for selecting Senga Bay is it’s proximity to Lilongwe. But nothing is ever a “short trip.” I think the experience may have been a bit of culture shock for Phil, but he handled it well.

After I got into an argument with the taxi cab driver about the price to drop us at the bus depot, which resulted in him returning us to the hotel promptly and cursing at me in Chichewa, we were able to find a more reasonable ride.

We were one of the first people on the minibus however which means you get to sit there until the thing fills up all the while being pressed to buy soda, toothpaste, wrestling DVDs, socks, eggs, sweets, muffins, and rosary beads. We finally were on our way after I again, got into a little tiff with someone who wanted to just talk English with me. I said very politely that I just didn’t feel like talking and I hoped that was alright. It was not alright. After he accused me of “not praying” which I assume was his way of saying I wasn’t being very Christian, he left me alone. I hope that I am not becoming hardened too quickly. I still have conversations with about at least 3-4 total strangers a day but sometimes enough is enough, especially when I can tell that the conversation is going to end with being asked for money. I have a pretty good radar for that now.

Anyway, after a pleasant, yes PLESANT – can you believe it, minibus ride to Salima we hopped in a matola to head out to the beach. Now I haven’t been in a matola yet. A matola is essentially a very low-riding pick-up truck. I think they ride so low because the amount of stuff they have piled into the flatbed over the years has totally eroded the suspicion.

So in we got for the cramped ride out to the bay. We stopped along the way because there was a funeral procession blocking the rode which was quite touching to watch.

The entire village was walking behind another matola which was carrying the body. Solemn singing filled the air and the entire roadside market grew quiet until the procession had passed.

Then, as quickly as the funeral party had appeared, they were gone and as if someone flipped a switch, the mood in the market changed and we were on our way again.

We opted to walk down the road 30 minutes to Carolina’s instead of paying because by that time we were desperate to stretch our legs. Tosh, a dreadlocked local, Carlsberg beer in hand decided to join us for the walk and regaled us with stories of the trips he runs out to the local lizard island (home to monitor lizards) and intently discussed the English Premier League with Phil.

Finally. We were there. Our paradise on the beach. Or not.

I had reserved our own beach chalet thinking that was the top of the line. It was a very dimly lit hut, with numerous cracks in the walls, an ant infestation in the bathroom and sand everywhere. Normally I try to stay places were I can see pictures on a website – but this place had come recommended so I made an exception.

Unfortunately, it seems that there have been problems as of late. The manager was no where to be found, and as we later heard, business has been rapidly dropping off in recent weeks in response to the decline in quality.

Still, we decided to make the best of it and settled in on the sand with a couple Carlsberg’s.

After a night filled with slapping whatever was biting us and trying to sleep through the constant barking of a dog that started howling at 11pm and did not stop for breath until 7am we had had enough.

I promptly called the other place I had been longing to stay which was double the price (hence the reason we were not staying there) and asked when the soonest was they could pick us up.

Side note: I believe that Carolina’s was and will be an excellent place to say – I think it just has hit a rough spot as other owners in the area later told us.