Monday, May 12, 2008

Lions, and hippos, and giraffes ...oh my

I promise to have a few more content-heavy posts soon about my impressions, frustrations, and successes here in Malawi. But for now there are more important things to discuss. Like lions and lion cubs.

So Phil and I were in Zambia for a very brief safari and it was heaven.

It was heaven after the Zambian border officials blatantly pocketed out $270 dollar entry fee (we know this because we did not sign the entry book or get a receipt) followed by 4 hours on the most bumpy, unpaved road imaginable. I swear my kidneys, spleen, and front teeth (hahahaha for those of you who know about them) fell out along the way. But the icing on the cake was when our driver almost killed four small children. I can blog about this lightly because he did not - but that moment was the most terrifying I have had here. Our driver was speeding (normal) on a narrow road that was going through a village. There were plenty of people on either side of the road and in the road of course. Bikes galore. Anyway, there was a bike in front of it and the driver tapped the horn. Unfortunately (mostly for us) this guy had headphones on and did not move. In turn, the driver swerved off the road to miss the guy. Now, the American equivalent of what happened was this. Imagine a speeding SUV driving through a suburban neighborhood on a summer evening. People are out- chatting on their front lawns. Coming home from work. Enjoying the balmy weather. Kids are playing in yards...a few have started a lemonade stand. So the SUV drives up on the sidewalk suddenly headed right for the lemonade stand.

Sadly, kids here in Malawi and Zambia (in this case) have to be much quicker and tougher - but on this occasion it served them well and they dove out of the way in time.

After that we (there was another couple in the car with us) insisted that he slow down. He assured us that he would have hit the cyclist before hitting the kids. Considering he was going over 100km per hour I actually stopped breathing thinking about what that would have meant. Having been hit by a car on my bike as a kid this scenario terrifies me. Luckily, the worst did not happen.

We were happy to arrive at the camp and get out of the car and take in the scenic beauty of our spot on the Luangwa River. Just a few hours later a hippo was grazing inches from our tent. Not feet from a chalet with a foundation this time. Inches from a pitched tent. Again, I was in heaven. Phil was a little nervous (for good reason). This was only the first of many close, close, CLOSE encounters of the animal kind. On our final night the watchmen had to scare away an unhappy elephant who woke us all up with his displeased trumpeting.

Between that first night and last night there were so many incredible moments its hard to know what was the highlight so please pardon my superlative overload. Was it the nursing lion cubs feet away, the family of giraffes that surrounded our truck, the glorious sunsets and sunrises, the scuffling baboons, the fighting impalas, the elusive spraying leopard, the herds of zebra, or maybe the bull elephant? Hard to say. Really really hard.

I think it might have been the lion cubs for me.

Those of you may know my love of felines...one in particular:

We spent about 25 minutes from this pride (zoom is not in use in this photo) and it felt like 25 seconds. The cubs were crying to be fed- I could hear them breathing. I have video!!!!
I thought of my other cat loving friends out there and my mother who would have been on cloud 9. Owners of Stella, Lucy and Domingo, Cloe (aka "cat"), Karma, and Nico and Maizy, this was a moment I wish I could have shared with you. "Toilet" if only you had been there with me.
I never was tired at getting up at 5 when this was waiting for me.
Baboon aggression

The most dangerous animal in Africa (deceiving because they look like giant pigs, but when one is literally staring you in the eye - thank god they have poor eyesight- you shudder at their massive size and huge jaws)
Count how many zebra in the shot
Giraffes were what I wanted to see most and I had a knack for spotting them. I think its because secretly I have always felt like a giraffe...awkward with knobby knees.

This was the only moment my heart raced a bit with anxiety. We were a little too close for the comfort of this male and he had no problem telling us to back off.Happy happy campers.
Our Zambia safari was a lovely end of my much needed week off. Back to reality....after we retrace our bumpy steps.

3 comments:

Kash said...

OMG, I got chills looking at those pictures. I can't even imagine how you felt seeing them all in the wild. Amazing.

Little Chef said...

Wow, how AWESOME.

Kirsten Downey said...

Kate, I can't WAIT to see you when you get back. You have had so many amazing experiences, I can't even keep them all straight! Man, I'm so excited for you! And just think, now you're coming back to graduate? What CAN'T you do girl?!?